Nomad Notes: Japan Edition (1)

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Welcome to the Japan edition of JGW’s Nomad Notes newsletter!

This is a once-a-month special edition focused on travel in Japan. It comes out the first Monday of every month.

This month’s topic is: the Mozu Tombs of Sakai!

Hi friend!

If you’re into ancient history, or just curious about Japan’s history specifically, I’ve got a great recommendation for you.

During my last trip to Japan, I visited the Mozu Tombs in Sakai, an UNESCO World Heritage Site just outside of the urban sprawl of Osaka. It’s one of those places that doesn’t always make the travel influencer Youtube videos, but it’s definitely worth your time if you’re into ancient history like I am.

These mounded tombs are from Japan’s Kofun period (300 to 538 AD), built over a thousand years ago for emperors and elites. The largest one, Daisenryo Kofun, is believed to be the resting place of Emperor Nintoku. It’s massive—so big that the only way to truly see its keyhole shape is from above.

What the tombs look like from above (courtesy of my Geocaching app)

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What It’s Like Visiting the Mozu Tombs

When I first arrived, I wasn’t quite sure what to expect. The tombs themselves are huge, but from the ground, they’re more like peaceful, grassy hills.

It’s hard to wrap your head around the scale when you’re walking at ground level. You really can’t see much except for a bunch of trees, honestly. And unfortunately the gates to the biggest tomb are closed to visitors.

Still, there’s something special about being there, knowing these tombs have stood for over a thousand years. You can see the city built up around them, but the tombs themselves are untouched.

The Mozu Park surrounding the tombs is quiet, simple, and doesn’t feel overly touristy. It’s the kind of place where you can take your time, slow down, and just soak in the history. There aren’t any big crowds or flashy signs—just you, the tombs, and the weight of Japan’s ancient past.

(Sidenote: If you like bicycle touring, this is a great place to do so! Nice bike paths, not super busy with cars: fabulous!)

A Quick Stop at the Sakai City Museum

One of the best parts of my visit was the Sakai City Museum, which is just a short walk from the tombs. It’s not huge, but it really helped bring the history of the Kofun period to life.

Through the exhibits and info placards (available in English), you learn how important these burial mounds were, and a deeper understanding of the people who built them. Plus they have souvenir rubber stamps, if you’re into that!

Tea at Sakai Shin-an

After the museum, I stopped by Sakai Shin-an, the tea room just beside the museum. It’s a cozy spot, and it’s set up for tourists specifically to make them comfortable. It has stools for sitting on, English instructions for drinking the matcha tea, and a staff member in a traditional kimono outfit. It’s a perfect way to end a visit to the tombs and reflect on everything you’ve just seen and learned.

Plus the tea cup? It’s kofuin-shaped!

Should You Visit the Mozu Tombs?

If you’re a history lover, especially when it comes to ancient civilizations, the Mozu Tombs are definitely worth checking out.

They’re not going to give you that “wow” moment right when you walk up like some of the other ancient stuff in Japan, but they’re an amazing part of history that’s worth visiting. It’s about more than just seeing the tombs; it’s about being in a place where history feels alive, even if it’s hidden under the surface.

And even if you’re not a hardcore history buff, the whole area offers a peaceful escape from the hustle and bustle of the more touristy parts of Japan. It’s a good chance to see a part of Osaka that often gets overlooked! Bring a lunch and have a picnic in the park and watch the cranes, if nothing else.

So, if you find yourself in the Osaka area and want to dive into a lesser-known part of Japan’s past, I’d say the Mozu Tombs are worth the visit. They might not be the most dramatic (from the ground, anyway), but they offer a glimpse into a world that’s rarely in the spotlight—and that’s part of their charm.

Happy wandering,

Anastasia Finch

JustGoneWandering.com

Japan UNESCO World Heritage Site Tours

Visiting UNESCO World Heritage Sites are a great way to explore a country’s ancient cultural history. I always make an effort to go to as many as I can during my travels, and I encourage y’all to do the same! Here’s a selection of tours for some of the major UNESCO sites in Japan to give you an idea of what’s available:

Himeji Castle, near Kobe, was one of the first regognized UNESCO sites in Japan.
Nara is famous for its friendly deer, but it’s also Japan’s first capital city with two UNESCO sites.
Shirakawa-go is an UNESCO collection of villages known for their culturally important architecture style.
I recommend going to Hiroshima and Miyajima as an overnight trip if you can, but if not then a day trip from Osaka is an option.
Mt. Fuji is the most famous UNESCO site in Japan and a must-visit.

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